Braised Green Beans with Tomato and Fennel

"Braised Green Beans with Tomato and Fennel," from Make It Like a Man!

Two things: first, you’re probably going to raise your eyebrows when you find out that I cooked these green beans for three hours. On purpose. Second, you probably can’t imagine that anything particularly good could come from this short list of ordinary ingredients, and the simple, hands-off method. If that’s you (and it was me, before I tried it), this is one of those times you should not rush to judgment. Braised Green Beans with Tomato and Fennel is like soul food and Southern cooking had a baby that was raised in Italy by a Lebanese nanny, and it grew up to be a supermodel and poet who was constantly spotted with Lenny Kravitz at Chateau Marmont. That’s the kind of delicious we’re talking about. (Oh, and there’s bacon, of course.)

Ingredients:

2 Tbs bacon fat or olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and thinly sliced
l lb. green beans, trimmed
1 can (14½-oz.) diced tomato
2-3 slices thick-cut bacon (raw), diced
½ tsp fennel seeds, chopped
Salt (½ tsp) and pepper, to taste
½ cup chicken stock, optional

How to do it:

  1. First, call Lenny and invite him over. Then, heat the oil in a casserole. Add the onion and sauté over a medium flame until soft, about 5 minutes.
  2. Add the beans, tomato, bacon, fennel, salt, and pepper. Cover and bring to a boil.
  3. Simmer, covered, over lowest heat, for 2¾-3 hours. Check occasionally to ensure that there’s no scorching on the bottom of the pot. If the liquid level gets too low, add a splash of stock (or water).
  4. Check seasoning.

"Braised Green Beans with Tomato and Fennel," from Make It Like a Man!

Notes:

  1. If you bought a package of bacon to render the fat for this recipe, you can use any method, but I like the oven. It doesn’t make as much fat as a skillet would, but the fat it renders is pure. You can do your prep (and probably have time for a cappuccino) while the bacon’s cooking.
  2. I cooked these beans in a five-quart casserole. I’m pretty sure I could’ve accommodated a double-batch in that pot, and these beans are so good, that … why not?
  3. Ideally, you shouldn’t need the stock, but this depends on how much control you have over your heat. My lowest flame was about 25% hotter than I wish it had been, so I did need the stock. (And immediately afterward, I ordered that diffuser I always thought I ought to have.) If you do need to add liquid, add only as much as you absolutely need to (and consider white wine instead of the stock, if you’re so inclined).

Although technically a side dish, this is really a kind of stew. I’m tempted to toss in some sausage or chicken and call it a main course. While you’re at it, if you have any leftover garlic, maybe toss that in, too – but I think that’d be more of a “that’s an interesting twist” than an “improvement.” If you really want to get freaky, crumble some feta onto each serving, and accompany it with toasted baguette slices as a sort of tapas dish.

The flavor, texture, and body of this dish are breathtaking, and for someone like me, who usually considers 3-minute blanched beans to be perfect, this is otherworldly. I’ve had beans like this at soul food restaurants, and in other joints that serve Southern versions of fried chicken, but they’ve always tasted like – as a rule – “whatever.” These beans are the polar opposite. They’re compelling.

"Braised Green Beans with Tomato and Fennel," from Make It Like a Man!

This recipe comes from “The Best American Recipes: 2005-2006,” ed. by McCullough and Stevens (Boston: Houghton Mifflin 2005) 180-181. Although I’ve presented it in my own words, and lacquered it – as usual – with my notes, observations, and references to a rock star, it’s completely Anna del Conte‘s recipe, and not mine. The book has a page full of test-kitchen notes and professional tips for this recipe, so if you like the dish, definitely see if you can come by a copy of the book.

"Braised Green Beans with Tomato and Fennel," from Make It Like a Man!

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Braised Green Beans with Tomato and Fennel

Dear Dan, I know they don’t have Comcast in heaven, because I’m pretty sure that it’s reserved for the “other place” … but I digress. What I was trying to say was that, I’m sure everyone in heaven has internet, so I hope you’re reading this, because I want you to know that all those cookbooks you left me in your will – including this one – constantly remind me of you in the best way. While I’ve got your attention, let me add this: even though you spent only half the time here that most guys do, I suspect that in many ways, you lived twice the life I have, and that constantly inspires me. Also, if you can leave comments from beyond the grave, please do. It’d make my site super popular.

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39 thoughts on “Braised Green Beans with Tomato and Fennel

  1. With a lineage like that, I will give this a try and reserve any skepticism until. I’m no stranger to green beans and tomatoes cooked together, but as a braise… I’m intrigued. And fennel seeds and bacon? Bring it on.

  2. Wow, this looks amazing. I never judge a nice long cooking time. In fact I welcome the aromas that, that creates in my house — especially with these smoky flavors. I’m in. Totally trying this. Pretty sure my boys will flip for it.

    • Yes, I guess so! I don’t know a lot about Southern cooking, but I was very happy to have discovered these beans!

  3. Well, you are sorta right with your predictions, Jeff. The difference was that I only raised one eyebrow instead of both. But I hear ya about slow cooking and few ingredients. The nature of that style just tends to bring out flavor…unless you put a bunch of weird things in the pot. (In that case, the flavor that comes from slow cooking just isn’t that good. But that’s on you, not on the method.) I digress. I’ve never slow cooked green beans before, and these sound delicious. I need to keep these on the radar as we head into the holidays…they’d be an excellent side dish!
    David @ Spiced recently posted…Chocolate Dipped Apples

    • They’d make a great side dish, David. Plus, they’re totally make-ahead-able.

  4. Looks awesome, Jeff. I grew up on my grandmother’s braised green beans, and I loved them. This recipe takes it up a notch with the bacon and fennel. I’m definitely going to give this a try! Not inviting Lenny, though…

  5. It’s not a ratatouille Jeff, I know. But for some reason it reminds me of a ratatouille, or at least a version of it. But with bacon in. It kind of looks like Ratatouille, you see. Anyway I love this dish. It’s right up my street.

    • Yes, I agree. I wonder if there is a connection between soul food and French food via Creole.

  6. Well, I was surprised you cooked the beans for 3 hours, but they look like they survived. Not like cafeteria green beans… Very ratatouillish, if I might. YUM
    Mimi recently posted…Pipián Rojo

    • You know, I hadn’t thought of that, but you’re absolutely right. It is like a simple ratatouille.

  7. I LOVE long-cooked braised green beans. I make a similar dish, but put the casserole in the oven (a very low heat oven) and just let it simmer away for an entire day. Love the idea of the fennel seed — gotta try that. I sometimes make a vegan version of this dish, and substitute mushrooms for the bacon. Not as good, but still pretty good. Anyway, great recipe — thanks.
    John / Kitchen Riffs recently posted…The Toronto Cocktail

  8. Not a recipe I would be drawn to but your accolades make me want to try it. The tomatoes look wonderful and rich. Have you ever tried adding a pinch of baking soda to tomatoes as they cook, it totally neutralizes the acidity. In fact, it makes them sweet! I bet the house smelled wonderful too.
    Eva Taylor recently posted…Lemony Shortbread

  9. I tell you, that’s some kind of delicious. I would love this recipe as it reminds me of a dish very similar that my mom made when I was young (in a galaxy far, far away). She used Rotel tomatoes, no fennel and served it over toast. Yours, sound so much better and a must try while fresh green beans are still coming up from Southern Italy. Did Lenny like the dish??
    Ron recently posted…A Swedish Mushroom Safari & Kantarellsoppa med Ädelost

    • Lenny never actually eats. He’s too cool for that. I love the idea of serving this on toast – a similar idea crostata occurred to me.

  10. As much as I love “tender-crisp” veggies I have to admit I’ve been more and more interested in “overcooked” vegetables lately. It started with a Nancy Silverton broccoli version she calls “long-cooked” at Mozza here in LA. She cooks it olive oil low-and-slow with a ton of onion and garlic. The broccoli literally turns to butter. Your green bean version seems to have all that buttery texture with the addition of deep flavors. It takes a bit of bravery to surrender a vegetable to hours on the stove (it’s so counterintuitive) but I’ve been thinking of tackling “overcooked” vegetables on my blog for months. Of course between your recipe and my neverending comment here, there’s really no need for me to do an entire post on the subject anymore… GREG

    • You should, though! I always enjoy reading your posts. Yeah, when I first read the recipe, I was aghast. But in the intro to the book, the authors pointed to it as one of their favorite recipes in the book. So I figured I’d plunge on in. I’m glad I did.

  11. This recipe sounds wonderful. Sometimes I see hundred-year-old recipes that call for cooking green beans (and other vegetables) for a long time – and it is fascinating how you combine bits of the old and new to create a very modern recipe.

    • Thanks, Sheryl. It is funny how things come and go. Quick cooking veggies is kind of our thing, and then “over-cooking” them comes back into style.

  12. I know that I am late to this party, but I have made this dish three times in the few weeks since I found it.
    It is that good.
    A few ideas to share. Because I had a fennel bulb on hand, I sliced it and softened it in the pan at the same time as the onion before proceeding with the recipe as written. Another dimension to the fennel flavor. I have also (at the suggestion of a previous comment) covered the pan and placed it in a slow oven till finished. (275 for a few hours.) Slightly more hands off, I haven’t needed to add additional broth with this approach. Yes, this recipe could be zhuzhed up with a splash of wine instead of broth, the addition of a few extra spices and some additional smoked meat but why bother? It is perfect in its simplicity. Thank You for sharing it.

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